Overview
Toilets haven’t changed much in the last 80 years. After a flush, water still fills a tank, lifting a float that shuts off the water when it reaches a certain level. A lever still opens a flapper to cause the flush, falling back into place when the water level drops. So it’s no surprise (nor any consolation) that we face the same flush problems today that our grandparents did. Sometimes the flush is too wimpy, sometimes the water keeps running, and sometimes the bowl doesn’t refill.
Our ace plumbing consultant has a simple four-step strategy to solve 95 percent of these problems. You can complete the first three steps in five minutes. That’ll solve most problems. The fourth step is usually easy too, but not always. More on this later. These steps work for most toilets but not for pressure-assist models.
Check the fill tube
Remove the tank lid and find the fill tube. It's a small flexible tube that runs from the fill valve to the overflow tube. While the tank refills, this tube squirts enough water down the overflow tube to refill the bowl after the completed flush. If this tube falls off or the water stream misses the overflow tube, the bowl won't fill and your next flush will be wimpy (that is, won't develop a strong siphon). Reattach the fill tube and make sure it perches about 1 in. above the rim of the overflow tube. Flush the toilet and watch the water stream to make sure it goes down the overflow tube.
Adjust the fill height
The water level in the tank is controlled by an adjustable float. A float that’s set too low produces a weak flush; if it’s set too high, water spills into the overflow tube and the fill valve won’t shut off. The water will keep running. Look for the fill level mark on the inside back of the tank and mark it on the overflow tube so you can see it more easily. If you can’t find it, measure down about 1 in. on the overflow tube and make a mark. Then flush the toilet and see if the water reaches and stops at that mark. If not, adjust the float up or down. If you have an old toilet, you’ll have to bend the brass rod that connects to the float ball to make adjustments. But with newer toilets you usually turn a screw or slide a clip along a rod. Flush the toilet after each adjustment.
Also make sure that the water level is at least an inch below the C-L (critical level) marked on the fill valve. You can adjust the height of many valves to raise or lower the C-L.
Occasionally the fill valve simply won’t shut off, which means that it’s defective. If so, turn the water supply off at the shutoff under the tank. Buy a replacement valve (sold at hardware stores and home centers). You don’t have to match the old one; many, like the one shown, fit most toilets. It’s a 15-minute change-out.
Adjust the flush handle/flapper chain
A chain that’s too short or tangled won’t allow the flapper to close and water will continue to leak into the bowl. This causes the fill valve to cycle on and off to refill the tank. A chain that’s too long, or a flush rod that hits the the tank lid, won’t open the flapper wide enough to stay open for the full flush. You’ll find yourself having to hold the lever to complete a good flush.
Need a plumber? http://www.xclusiveplumbing.com
